Photo Sessions

Multiple Exposures With The Hasselblad 500c/m

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I’m embarrassed to admit that for the longest time I had no idea the Hasselblad 500c/m was capable of making multiple exposures on a single frame with a roll of film. With most of my cameras, the ability to do multiple exposures has always been controlled by a dedicated switch, typically labeled “multi” or by an icon of two rectangular frames over top of each other. With the Hasselblad 500c/m I just figured this wasn’t an option. However, when it comes to Hasselblad, simplicity usually wins the day and the process to make multiple exposures is not only quite simple, but also incredibly easy.

Before going any future, I suppose I should answer the question; what is a multiple exposure? Multiple exposures are photographs in which two or more images are superimposed in a single frame. With a little bit of practice they can be quite fun and often yield dreamy or otherworldly results.

Photographed with a Hasselblad 500c/m and Ilford PanF ISO 50 film in medium format.

So if anyone out there reading this is like me and didn’t know you can do multiple exposures on a single frame with the Hasselblad 500c/m, here is a quick outline of the steps you should follow:

STEP ONE: Expose your first image like normal. Typically when doing multiple exposures I underexpose each frame a stop or two to keep the final negative from getting too dense.

STEP TWO: Without advancing the frame, insert the dark slide into the camera and remove the film back.

STEP THREE: With the film back removed, cock the shutter on the film body only!

STEP FOUR: Re-attach the film back and remove the dark slide.

Your Hasselblad is now ready to expose another image onto the same frame of the film roll. Since you removed the film back when you cocked the shutter, the roll of film has not been advanced and you are now exposing the same frame again.

You can repeat these steps as many times as you like to make as many exposures on the same frame as you want. Two, three, five, one-hundred if you want to! Personally I haven’t gone above two exposures on the same frame because I think it is easy to get cluttered and messy with compositions, but hey, in the creative process there are no rules and I’m sure someone could point out to me a photographer who does a lot more than two in camera.

Photographed with a Hasselblad 500c/m and Ilford PanF film in medium format.

These images are from my first outing after discovering this new technique. Ilford Pan F would perhaps not be my first choice of film when working with a process that requires a bit of guess work, but the day was very bright and warm and I wanted to open the aperture up wide to blur my backgrounds a bit. Even with an ISO 50 film I was still forced to work at about f/8 which wasn’t ideal and put some constraints on my creative vision. Even on the best of days photography is about compromise so I worked with the resources and situation I had on hand and made the best of it.

I plan on doing a lot more multiple exposures in the future.

Summer Has Yet To Begin

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The weather has been very dreary in the Pacific North West this year. Oddly, I’m not bothered by this in the slightest. When I read the weather reports of other parts of the United States hanging out in triple digit heat I can’t help but think I’ll gladly take a little bit of rain and overcast. Getting a little wet when making a photograph has never been a very big deal.

Photographed with a Mamiya C330 TLR and Ilford FP4 120 film.

I really enjoy the soft lighting of overcast weather. Sometimes it can make working with a slower speed film a little bit of a problem, but nothing a tripod or a steady hand can’t solve. Plus it gives me an excuse to work with the lens aperture wide open. On my Mamiya C330 TLR working at f/2.8 creates a tad bit of softness to the final image that can be enjoyable for portraits and figure studies.

Ultimately, whatever weather gets thrown my way, the bottom line is you have to work with it and do your best!

Olympia SM3 - Playing With Form

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I’ve mentioned on this blog several times that along with photography I also have a passion for typewriters; my Olympia SM3 being a personal favorite. I’m not a particularly good writer mind you, but I do spend a good deal of time journaling with typewriters and writing letters to friends. It is a fun way to pass the time and I think it creates more meaningful and memorable communication with people; something that is sorely lacking in this day and age of social media, memes, and texting.

Olympia SM3 photographed with a Hasselblad 500c/m and Ilford FP4 120 film.

Generally speaking, I have great admiration for machines dedicated to a single task. Film cameras, typewriters, a well made compass, a useful pocket knife. There is something special and admirable about a device that performs a useful function, especially when it can perform that function through mechanical engineering alone.

Seriously, I could ramble about this topic for a very long time.

Put a couple of cocktails in my stomach and you’ll find me talking endlessly on the subject. Every so often my admiration for typewriters merges together with my love of photography. It honestly isn’t really much of a leap when you look at it from a visual perspective. Since a typewriter is meant to be used by humans, the form and interface are designed to be pleasing in a physical sense, despite the fact that it is made from metal and rubber. A typewriter is an extension of your ability to communicate. Using one show flow effortlessly from your brain to your fingers to the page in front of you. It’s no accident that the lines and shape of a typewriter are similar to those of the human body.

Olympia SM3 photographed with a Hasselblad 500c/m and Ilford FP4 in 120.

Of all the typewriters in my collection the Olympia SM3 is probably my favorite. It is just engineered so well. Completely bulletproof and yet so elegant at the time. This is the typewriter that has a permanent place on my desk and it is the typewriter I use about 90% of the time.

It doesn’t hurt that it photographs beautifully.

Storm in the Oregon Sky

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The wind was whipping around something fierce on this particular day out on Sauvie Island. High winds can easily be some of the most difficult conditions to work under. Cold weather is one thing. Cold weather with winds moving through your skin down to your bones is another thing entirely.

Photographed with a Hasselblad 500c/m and Ilford Delta 400 medium format film.

I feel extremely fortunate that despite the difficult conditions there are some excellent photographs that have come out of this session. You’d never know it looking at this image, but the model and I blew through twelve frames of Ilford Delta 400 in about three minutes flat. Anything longer and the model would have probably started turning purple. On top of that, it was impossible to look through the ground glass on my Hasselblad without my eyes becoming a watery mess thanks to the high winds. I ended up just simply zone focusing using the distance scale on the lens.

Photography isn’t always, in fact it is rarely ever, the glamorous activity people assume it is. I’m lucky to work with brave and very resilient people.

Imperfection With a Paper Negative in the Darkroom

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I’ve mentioned on this blog before that I sometimes like to work with Paper Negatives. When using the Large Format 4x5 camera, paper negatives can be a great way to make images in a very economical way. A sheet of darkoom paper is still pennies on the dollar when compared to the traditional film one would typically load in a camera.

Photographed with a 4x5 View Camera and Ilford RC 4x5 Darkroom Paper

Paper negatives come with two challenges in particular. First, the effective ISO of paper is very slow. I typically expose at ISO 2 or 3 depending on how harsh the light is. This means very very slow shudder speeds at times. Part of the reason most of my portraits using paper negatives are so soft is because it is nearly impossible for the vast majority of people to hold completely still over the course of one or two full seconds. Second, paper negatives tend to have a lot of contrast in the final results. I find this is alleviated to a great extend by simply diluting my paper developer far more than I typically would when making a print from a negative. This tends to result in a more muted effect.

A third challenge with paper negatives can be illustrated in the image that comes with this post. When a lazy photographer such as myself isn’t paying much attention during development paper can get stuck together in the tray. This will result in uneven development as not enough chemistry reaches the paper emulsion. I’m considering this example to be a happy accident. I like the way the top of the model is brighter than the lower half. It’s an interesting segmentation.

That’s what I’m telling myself anyway.